It was sunny and hot out, and after a few days in Dawson we decided to head out a day early from D2D. We would miss the ride, but it would give us a buffer day on the Dempster.
The day started perfect, we had breakfast with some of the guys from Texas and parted ways. Dan headed south back to Calgary and Ed and I continued on. I felt bad for the other guys that were suppose to be joining us, but with no cell connectivity I couldn’t track them down.
We gassed up and hit the road.
Start of the Dempster
Perfect Day
When the Dempster is wet, its a complete nightmare, the road is made out of calcium carbonate and turns into grease when wet. However, when dry the road is a dust bowl. After 20km we hit a convoy of large rigs moving construction material, passing them was difficult because you have to eat their dust and they shower you with rocks. Because they are working, there is little incentive for them to slow down and let you pass.
About 80 km into the day, and after getting passed the trucks I stopped to take a few picture and notice a geiser of coolant spraying from my radiator. A rock form the trucks I passed hit a coolant tube on the rad and punctured a hole, 80km from anywhere. Ed drove by and I waved for him to stop, but he thought I was just waving and rode past. I didnt see him for another hour. I tried to ride back as far as I could, but after a kilometer engine temp warning light came on. I spent the next few hours riding, stopping and filling the rad with water. Ed caught back up with me and we limped my bike back to mile 1 of the dempster.
Stoped
Back at the start, time for repairs
I was really gutted as I didnt want this to be the end of the trip before even reaching Inuvik. I has also planned on covering the rad with mesh before leaving, but time ran out and now I’m paying for it. My only chance was if the the gas station at the junction had some epoxy, I could try to make a patch. I cleaned off the rad and after searching the gas station mechanic gave me some 5 minute epoxy. Essentially you roll it around into a puddy, then it harders over the course of an hour. I made a patch, took a nap, then filled the rad and crossed my fingers – NO LEAKS! It was weeping a little, but I figured as the epoxy hardened the weeping should stop, worst case I will have to top up the rad at the end of each day, but at least im mobile again.
More Northern Innovation (from a Southerner)
By this time it was 11:00pm, but still sunny. At truck driver we were speaking to said it was the best time to ride the dempster because it would be sunny, not too hot and no traffic on the road. We decided to head out and see how far we could get.
The road was dusty but great, the weather got pretty cool, and most importantly there were no cars on the road.
About 250km into the ride I stopped to take a picture of a perfectly still lake. At this time in the morning (about 2am) the mosquitoes are ruthless, so I wanted to be quick. I went to pop off and as I tried to drop the kickstand the bike rolled back, I leaned over thinking the stand would be down and the bike started to drop. Fully loaded its too heavy to try to stop it from dropping, but these bikes are designed to fall so I let it down as gently as possible.
At first it was funny, but then the mosquitoes swarmed and I remembered Ed was up ahead. He knows I stop for photos so he usually keeps going. I tried to quickly lift the bike but it was way to heavy loaded up, I couldnt get a grip anywhere. Then I see the gas tank overflow pouring gas out the bottom. This is bad because this stretch is 371km, we need every drop of gas to make it to Eagle Plains. Seeing the gas run out I thought I could jam it up with a stick and wait for Ed to return, but there are no branches around. I quickly begin to remove the luggage. In a frenzy I pull all the baggage off and lift my bike. Unsure how much gas leaked out I load the bike back off and continue. My neck and face were feasted on by mosquitos and I was dripping in sweat.
Perfectly still, no one to help lift the beast.
About 30km on I was riding past a long skinny lake that borders the road. I look over to see a bald eagle flying just over the surface and about the speed I’m going, he flys beside me for about 800meters then pearches on the top of a lone pine tree.
Bald Eagle
We roll into Eagle Plains (halfway) at about 5am. Totally exhausted we pitch our tents in the day use area of the hotel lot fending off mosquitos. There were a few other riders camped and we couldnt be bothered to try to check into the motel. The second my head hit the pillow I was asleep. Tomorrow would be much of the same, but at least I heard Eagle Plains Hotel makes a mean breakfast.